Zacatecas is an old Spanish Colonial city founded on the wealth the local silver mines provided. It is set in a hillside and for what reason I do not know is incredibly curvy. The roads, almost all one way serpentine through the town with no regard for logic. This time we knew exactly what hostel we wanted to stay at but had absolutely no idea how to get there. After a very hard ride in the rain and with Alfred´s bike acting up we decided to do what no man will willingly do. Not only did we ask for directions but we paid a taxi to lead us there. If it were not for us swallowing our pride we would still be aimlessly wandering the streets looking for our resting place.

As we were parking in front of Hostel Villa Colonial a huge Land Cruiser outfitted for the end of the world pulled up. In it were two Swiss guys, Tobias and David. Tobias as it turned out is on an around the world trip and David is tagging along on the Mexico, Cen. and S. American portion. We adventurers quickly became friends and after unpacking hit the town. Although bone tired we would not be shown up by our Swiss friends and preceded to outlast them in a game of beer and tequila shots. After closing down the last bar we headed back to the hostel for the coma we knew would be coming

Sleeping was wonderful but unfortunately we didn't feel wonderful. After shaking off the sleepies we headed out for breakfast and our first look at Zac. Beautiful is one word to describe this town. Surprising is another. Like most gringos we only know what we´re told of Mexico. It's a dirty, scary, ugly place that one should not venture to, unless you're headed to Cancun for a gringo dream vacation. This town with it's classic 1700's Spanish architecture is breathtaking.

For breakfast we settled on a small open air spot honoring the local Matodores with their pictures and news accounts of their triumphs. Eggs, beans, bread and fresh squeezed orange juice hit the spot as we didn't eat much the night before, there was too much drinking to be down. Unfortunately for Alfred, one bite was all his body would let him consume. That morning would be forever know in Zac as the "day the gringo spilled his guts in the town square".

We were still concerned about about Alfred's bike so the owner of the hostel called a buddy of his to come help. Frederico, also a KLR owner and member of horizonsunlimited.com, came by the next day and led us to his hostel where we pulled the bikes into the large foyer which at one time was an open courtyard but now covered by a fiberglass roof. With Federico's help we deduced that the problem was most likely bad gas bought at a small town Pemex which didn't turnover it's supply very often. Federico jumped on his bike and set off in search a new fuel filter, spark plug wrench and a spark plug. In no time the bike was pulled apart and repaired. While working on the bike we had the pleasure of meeting some of Federico´s family. These were people we would be friends with back home.

That night we took Federico to dinner along with a Swiss couple heading to Patagonia in their tricked out Land Cruiser. That's two sets of Swiss in two days exploring in their monster trucks. Makes you wonder what's up with Swiss? There's only about 7 million of them and most must be in 4X4's wandering somewhere. Federico took us to a non-descript restaurant which looked innocent enough. I ordered enchiladas with chicken and pistachio and habenero salsa. The waiter tried to talk me out of it as my white skin gave me away as a gringo. I wouldn't hear of it. "Bring it on!", I declared. When the dishes arrived we all were shocked, not by the flavor but by the color. The Swiss enchilada's were bright green and not a chili verde green but a neon green not normally associated food. Federico's enchiladas were a vibrant purple. While mine were neon turquoise. It turns out they all had a different nut which the chefs know how to manipulate to create the colors. I think we all were a little worried to find out how things would turn out the next day (if you know what I mean).

We spent 3 days in Zac wandering the streets, touring an old silver mine and sampling the local food and culture. In short we really enjoyed our time there. I would have no problem going back and spending a week or two to really get to know the town. Next on the tour is Guanajuato and it's underground streets. Tune in next time for "Gringos on the loose in Guanajuato!".