The Road to Oaxaca

We had a great time in SC and wished we could stay longer but this is a big country with much to see. I´ve heard and read much on Oaxaca and I hoped the city would be one of the highlights of my trip.

We covered much of the same ground as the day before on our trip to Sumidero Canyon. Twisties, clouds, drop offs that sort of thing. Eventually we descended and had our first clear view of the Pacific. For those of you keeping count we´ve travelled approximately 3600 miles now. Seeing the Pacific is sort of a landmark. While descending we entered familiar terrain. Mostly a mix of cactus, shrubs, palms and the occasional big tree. Most everything else was brown from lack of rain.

Closing in on the main road to Oaxaca the military presence became more pronounced. We were stopped and questioned for the first time. Mind you there are military check points all over the country. We actually look forward to them when we´re in remote areas. The next checkpoint brought on a full search of my gear. The younger soldiers checked out Alfred´s as well but it seemed more out of curiosity than of duty.

It´s a long ride from SC to Oaxaca City (OC) so we planned on stopping at what counts for a big city but we made good time and pushed on for a large lake we spotted on the map. When we arrived we were shocked to find the town was a rundown village with one hotel and not much else. The hotel was too expensive so tonight we would break out the camping gear. After provisions were procured (bread, ham, chips, water and cookies) we set off for the lake. Mountain lakes can be quite beautiful and this one did not disappoint. Mountains ringed half the lake with clouds attempting to billow over the tops of peaks without success. Sun was sinking quickly and with it our light. The tent went up in no time and soon we were enjoying our gourmet fare besides a gorgeous lake as sun set. Unfortunately for me Alfred was the only available to share the moment with.

Before the last rays of light faded Alfred threw up for the first time. This is to say it was the first of many gullet expulsions over the next few days. Vomiting was followed by water emptying his body in a most graceless manner. Yes, Moctezuma had took his revenge on another hapless gringo.

Throughout the night Alfred alternated retching in one direction and squatting in the other.

With daybreak came the realization that Alfred was quite ill. We decided to try the hotel after all. On the way Alfred was forced to stop and vomit, only yellow bile was left in his stomach. It was clear he was severely dehydrated and needed medical attention. It took some doing but we were able to locate what passes for emergency services in town. The facility was the local clinic. Mothers with sick babies, old people with ailments not yet discovered. Alfred was sent to a room with two beds, one with a sheet the other sheetless with tears over it´s vinyl skin. It was determined that he would need an IV to rehydrate and treat the illness. Great, let´s get it started. What´s that, the clinic does not have needles and tubing? I´d have to leave and purchase them from the pharmacy? Incredulously, I left and purchased the needed items. The IV was started and I began to take stock in my surroundings. We were in a crumbling building with rusting hospital equipment and to top it off the bathroom did not have a toilet seat, soap or paper towels! This was definitely third world health care.

Alfred stayed for a about 4 hours and 3 liters of fluids. Still too ill to ride we didn´t have much choice but to backtrack 30kms to a bigger town with hotels with AC. We found a hotel just in time as I think heat exhaustion was setting in. We ended up staying two days which for both of us was no fun. Granted it wasn´t quite as bad for me. In all we spent three days in the middle of nowhere. That pretty much ate up our time for Oaxaca City.

Reluctantly we headed towards the Pacific for the sun and beach portion of our trip. The day´s destination was to be Puerto Escondido a small town famous to the surfing crowd and now to the Italians. An Italian film maker made a movie here and now the Italians flock to this small village.

The ride was another bout with the twisties and for a change the extreme heat. We encountered the usual terrain with the exception of savannah like terrain and the occasional oasis´formed along the few rivers which still flow this time of year.

Next up Puerto Escondido and surfer Shayne. Charlie don´t surf!